George Freidman PhD
Founder and Chairman: Stratfor Think Tank

Nelly Lahoud Ph.D
Professor of Political Theory
Goucher College

Commissionar John F. Lehman
The 9/11 Report

Fawaz A. Gerges PhD
Christian A. Johnson Chairholder
Sarah Lawrence College

Ayatollah Muhammad Hussein Fadlallah
Spiritual Leader of Hezbollah

James C. Oberwetter
Former US Ambassador to Saudi Arabia
2004- 2007

Richard Pearlstein PhD
Assoc. Professor of Political Science
Southeastern Oklahoma State University

Don Beck,PhD
Director:National Values Center

Riad Daudi JD
President:Syrian Virtual University

Fathali M. Moghaddam PhD
Professor: Pyschology Department
Georgetown University

Jafar Tukan
Palestinian Writer

Khalila Sabra
Director:
Muslim-American Society: N. Carolina
Freedom Foundation

Hanan Ashrawi PhD
Secretary General: MIFTA

Oliver “Buck” Revell
Retired, Associate Deputy Director- FBI

Mohammad Raad
Head of the Committee of Support and Resistance:
Deputy: Lebanon Parliament for Hezbollah

John Esposito PhD
Professor: Georgetown University
Prince Alwaleed Bin Talal Center
For Muslim-Christian Study

Akbar Ahmad PhD
Ibn Khaldun Chair of Islamic Studies
American University
Wash. DC

Paul Berman
Author: Terror and Liberalism

Richard B. Parker
Middle East Institute Scholar in Residence
Former Ambassador to: Algeria, Lebanon, Morocco

Thomas W.Lippman
Middle East Institute Adjunct Scholar
Author: Inside The Mirage

Abdul Rahman al Zamil PhD
Chairman of the Board
Al Zamil Group

Mark Palmer
Former Ambassador: Hungary
Author: Breaking the Real Axis of Evil

Isobel Coleman PhD
Senior Fellow Council on Foreign Relations

Nissrin-al Jundi
Alshall Construction- Syria
Office Manager

Kamal Abu Jaber PhD
Jordan Institute for Middle East Sudies

Palestinian Doctor
“Man” on the street
Camp- Lebanon

Danny Grossman
Executive Director
American Jewish Congress- Israel

James Zogby PhD
President: Arab American Institute

Leila Deeb
Editor Encyclopedia Palestina

John Duke Anthony PhD
President:National Council on US Arab Relations

Martin Van Creveld
Hebrew university of Jerusalem
Author: Sword and the Olive

Dore Gold PhD
Author Hatred’s Kingdom
Former Israeli Ambassador to UN

Eran Lehman PhD
Executive Director American Jewish Committee Israel

John D. Negroponte
Former National Director of Intelligence

Mohammed al Imady PhD
Former Minister of Economy Syria

Raphie Etgar
Curator: Israeli Museum

Rabbi David Rosen
Director of Dept. for Interreligious Affairs
American Jewish Committee
Papal Knight: Order of St. Gregory

Jeffrey Nelson MD
Retired- Saudi Aramco

Robert Jordan
Former US Ambassador to Saudi Arabia 2002-0

And that’s the point! We can complain, without looking over our shoulders, or winding up in the town square minus our heads or our hands. We are accused of being arrogant and imposing our views on others (we had that voiced to us often). We can be arrogant and we do impose our views, sometimes wrongly. We’re going to ask you to stay tuned because we will be telling you more about our Middle East journey. Because folks, “at the end of the day,” based on what we heard, saw and experienced, we feel humbled by it all, not the least bit arrogant. And grateful for the country we live in, where we can say what’s on our mind, follow our values, and the dictates of our conscience. You can’t do that in many of the areas we went to.

It’s ironic that with the security checkpoints we went through, we still managed to catch our connections most of the time. Phil had major delays in Tel Aviv, was quizzed by several people, all of his luggage, cameras, papers checked, and during this a bomb scare came in and Ben Gurion Airport in Tel Aviv was evacuated. He did catch his flight to London; caught his London to Chicago flight and would you believe missed his Chicago to Dallas connection because he could not transfer all of his equipment from customs through to Dallas.

Dennis (who left 6 days before me [Niki]) had a walk in the park. Nothing checked, no questions, on you go.

I left from Istanbul (Turkish Airlines was 75 minutes late), arrived at JFK, New York, got through customs, ran for my Dallas connection with little time to spare and smack into a security checkpoint!

Deja vu all over again. New York security checked and rechecked my carry-on, pulled me out of line, asked some questions, patted me down, and you guessed it – I missed my Dallas connection by minutes. American Airlines left the gate early. Turkish Airlines was obligated to put me up at a hotel. They did, a one star, near La Guardia Airport – where I was leaving from the next morning. So, we started the trip at the Hotel Palestine in Baghdad – protected by American forces, in a one star hotel (Phil’s rating) and it ended with one of us in a one star hotel, in a tough, tough neighborhood in Corona Queens, New York, feeling more unsafe than ever, (with no American forces in sight).

Still glad to be back “on the ground”. What we have learned we’re going to share. Our thinking has changed somewhat; and we are all changed more than somewhat by our experiences, the incredible people we met and their stories.

There are many people to thank for making this learning adventure happen.

First and foremost for the funding and the moral support and sense of purpose they gave us: The Hatton W. Sumners Foundation for the Study & Teaching of Self Government, Inc., its trustees and executive director Hugh Akin. Their support will shape this project into the programs and documentaries and stories where you’ll meet who we talked to and who impacted our thinking and challenged us to look below the obvious.

• Phil Smith of Phil Smith Productions, our cameraman, confidante and sidekick.
  Mark Head (F.R.T. Chairman’s Council member) quarterbacked the web site, www.frtv.org.
• Kevin Carr of Internet Strategies (and his able staff) designed the site and put our ramblings from the Middle East on it.
• Mary Handley and Liz Austin for holding down the fort.
• Our F.R.T. board: Cary Clayborn, Ralph Cousins, H. Martin Gibson, William Gordon and
• Lynn Vogt who backed us and the project; and wished us Godspeed.
• F.R.T. Chairman’s Council members who are helping us with continued research and reading: Kathleen Berry, Jim Falk, Paul Pederson, Dr. Rhonda Porterfield and Dick Sartain.
• Brenda Pejovich, who hosted our bon voyage reception.
• Darab Ganji of Petro-Hunt who helped us with Saudi Arabia.
• Congressman Jeb Hensarling and his assistant Barbara Johnson who opened Iraq for us.
• Joel Brooks with the American Jewish Congress in Dallas, who introduced us to his Israeli counterpart, Danny Grossman.
• Danny Grossman for his extraordinary help in Israel and Leila Deeb from Jordan and
• Mohammad Najib – Palestine for opening doors in Palestine.
• Ahmad Sbaiti (F.R.T. Chairman’s Council member) whose nephew, Tarek, helped us in Lebanon. Ahmad has challenged us on these issues for years. He asked us to keep an open mind. We did.
• Jim Falk with the World Affairs Council-Dallas, and Dr. Jerry Leach, World Affairs Council-Washington, DC who gave us contacts and encouragement.
• Leslie Oschmann opened the doors in Turkey.
• Ambassador James Oberwetter (Dallas’ own) U.S. Ambassador to the Kingdom of Saudi Arabia and his capable staff who were invaluable in Saudi.
• Mark Schooler (our Dallas friend and great insurance agent) who put us in touch with Sam Whitfield at CPA in Iraq.
• In Iraq, Don Ritchie of Custer’s Battle Security challenged us with “Maybe we want it more for them than they do (for themselves).” He kept us out of harm’s way during Baghdad’s “fireworks”, the 1st anniversary of the fall of Baghdad.

The list goes on. We’ve missed some. You’ll hear more about those we missed thanking. It’s not intentional, just overload. We’re deeply grateful for everyone who has helped us, supported us and prayed for us – you know who you are.

You’ll hear and see more from us. Thank you for being here …”As always, we’ve been talking about things that matter, with people who care.”

Dennis and Niki

P.S. If you’ve missed any reports and photos you can always go back to The Roots of War website.

Elegant white stone or stucco buildings next to charred, bombed out ruins; driver speeding, narrow streets. Surreal; is the driver playing chicken with pedestrians, and who enjoys it most? Cars drive up a one way street; and the atmosphere is totally chaotic.

First appointment was with Brigadier General Jibdil Rajoub, the National Security Advisor for Chairman Arafat and the Palestinian Authority. General Rajoub is “supposedly” the most powerful man in the Palestinian Authority, he “is” Minister of Foreign Affairs and acts as Arafat’s special envoy to foreign visitors. He’s been commander of the Preventive Security System for the last eight years. General Rajoub addressed Hamas Affairs, and the “fence”. He answered some tough questions:

• Can this regime control violence against Israelis?
• What specifically is being done or not done to correct the situation?
• Your position on suicide attacks, and are they advancing your (the PLO) cause?
• What specifically do you need in order to create the state of Palestine?
• Is it possible to live in peace with the state of Israel?
• It’s been a long time since elections were held – if Chairman Arafat were to run, what would be his chances of re-election?

We joined Mohammed Horani, member of the Palestinian Parliament; one of the growing groups calling for reforms, changing the current Palestinian Authority and PLO leadership and the directives of Chairman Arafat. Mr. Horani addressed his role in the Hamas cease-fire last year.

A surprise interview brought us to Michael Tarazi’s office. Tarazi is a lawyer for the PLO Negotiation Department, active in confiscation issues over settlements and the “fence”. Mr. Tarazi was one of the spokespersons for the PLO at the Hague. A couple of years ago we had the pleasure of interviewing him when he was in the U.S. for the World Affairs Council. A wealth of information, Tarazi is Minister of Negotiation on Sae Berikat, has been head of the Abumazea Plan; and he solidified for us the PLO perspective on the “wall”. (more to come on this)

Interviews ended with the PLO Minister of Information, Navil Amr; a member of the Legislative Council, and a former Minister of Parliamentary Affairs. While serving in this capacity, Mr. Amr repeatedly called for reforms. His life has been threatened by those who do not believe the last Intifadal should have been peaceful. Mr. Amr has been the PLO Ambassador to Moscow and Iraq. His voice has been a strong one shaping the regime yet a dissident one.

If there was a cohesiveness to the day it was that of the settlement issues and the “wall”. On the Palestinian side it is not a security “fence”, but a 30-foot high barrier separating farmers from their fields, people from their businesses, and families from their loved ones. The impression received from Palestinians was that is was a gauntlet; a deliberate slap across the face and some. It is not an issue that will lead to a peaceful coexistence (from the Palestinian perspective) and prevention of terrorist/”suicide” attacks. If anything, one gathered it (the “wall”) may escalate the violence.

We visited with Anne Roberts and her medical staff at Manwra, a health program for women and children, co-sponsored by IBM.

Manwra educates Palestinian women on health issues that affect their families and their own lives. It especially focuses on the health costs associated with Palestine “occupation” issues; that of a woman in labor not being able to get through checkpoints in time for delivery, and literally having to give birth on the ground with armed soldiers nearby; more than a few of these babies do not survive. Manrwa is also dealing with the vitamin deficiencies that result from meat-fish poor diets that lead to malnourished babies and their mothers.

“At the end of the day,” as Captain Jacob Dallal would say, “it remains to be seen what will happen here, but listen up, it is a huge issue.” Our “end of the day” took us shopping in Ramallah where no traffic rules apply, and negotiation is the only way of life. And the Palestinians pride themselves and enjoy the negotiation game. Hmmnn?

Good-bye Israel.

Holy Week, Easter and Passover, streets blocked, barricades and police everywhere. Incidents expected at the Wailing Wall, high tension in the “city”. Time to leave. Yet not an easy task. The time change to daylight savings time lost us an hour so we hustled to Tel Aviv with no time to spare. This is one place where you’d best be there two hours before take off. Stopped at the entrance to the airport, security was tight; long lines of cars waiting to get into Tel Aviv-Ben Gurion Airport. We waited for 35 minutes while our passports were checked and rechecked, and two different people asked the same questions in different ways. Our luggage was looked at, while others, who had been pulled over after our car, were let go.

The same routine took place at the airport – for one solid hour, luggage was checked through security X-ray (2 times); bags were open and all contents examined; questions were asked by three different people in three different ways, and then again: why cameras, were we journalists, why did we go to so many different places, did we go to Palestine, who did we know in Israel and Palestine, did we know them before, why were we doing this job and so on? The questions were asked by young people under 26, coolly, calmly, detached and very professionally. As they said, they were just doing their job.

The economic and human costs of terrorism were clearly felt in Israel and Palestine.

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If It’s Thursday (or is it Friday?) It Must Be Turkey

Istanbul is a gem on the Bosphorous; 16,000,000 people call it home. Beautiful, elusive, Constantinople. The city stays up all night, dinner starts at 9pm. We picked out our own fish, (turbot and white fish straight out of the waters nearby). Dinner was a non-stop political discussion. Try summarizing the Ottoman Empire, Ataturk, the European-Middle East melange Turkey is, with hosts smoking cigars, sipping Raki, and waving their arms. Politics here is a way of life, talked about by everyone from the local cab driver to waiters.

Good fortune led us to Cengiz Andar, a journalist with the Turkish Daily News. Andar brilliantly spoke to the Iraq war, one year after Hussein’s statue at the Ferdows Square was brought down. Said Andar, “the act…symbolized the end of one of the most cruel regimes the history of the Middle East has ever witnessed.” Andar has been a close observer for over 30 years of the Iraq situation, and is an instructor on Iraqi history and politics at an Istanbul University. He has been to Iraq four times since the end of Saddam Hussein’s regime. His comments (not views held by too many people we met) were surprising. Professor Andar disagrees with the “pessimism” prevalent in American politics as it relates to Iraq.

Says Andar, (his comments – we just report what we’re told) “the crackdown on Shiite Cleric Muqtada a Sadr and his ‘Mehdi Army’, and the efforts to pacify the insurgency in the Sunni Triangles most insurgent towns are a recipe for success in the reconstruction if the U.S. is to hand over the sovereignty to Iraq on June 30, the fixed deadline. And no, it is not a Vietnam, because Iraq is not Vietnam. Iraq is Iraq . . . the historical circumstances have no resemblance at all.”

Professor Andar stated, that we (Americans) have committed mistakes, one being not stopping al-Sadr when we could have and letting him organize the “Mehdi Army”. He believes al-Sadr is “enough of a trouble maker to threaten many Iraqis.” He commented favorably on Paul Bremer’s declaring al-Sadr an “outlaw” and Bremer’s shaping the situation “on the ground” rather than just reacting…you’ll see more of Andar later.

In case you’re wondering, this view was not one we heard often. The afternoon gave us just the opposite from at least a bakers dozen other Turks. As you know American’s position on Iraq and in other areas is not regarded well. Our notes and tapes reflect this over and over.

Yet at the same time our politics and positions may not be liked or respected, we as a people are. Over and over we heard about our friendliness and willingness to help people in need. What was also remarkable was how well informed Middle Easterners are on the issues of the day, and how too often we as a people were criticized for spouting “sound bites”. Well, guess thatÕs why we came isn’t it?,Éto bring you more than “sound bites”.

Michael Kirser, (editor of Turkish Business World) then joined us. He and his wife Sra have published the magazine through good times and bad. While he says the economy was picking up he also said ads are down, the magazine is thinner. And we know ads are the first to go. Michael addressed Turkish-European relations and the challenges Turkey has because it straddles both Asia and Europe. Turkey is striving mightily to bring itself into this century. It has its challenges, Cypress, and how its citizens view U.S.-Turkey-Iraqi relations, among others. Economist World Outlook 2004 classified Turkey with Zimbabwe as a financial trouble spot. 75¢ USA is equivalent to 1,000,000 Lira. Kirser believes it impossible for the lira to sustain its value and hopes for a soft descent.

Other challenges include, the highest cost of energy and telecommunication rates in Europe, inadequate rail and ports and roads. Michael said Turkey has to work even more diligently toward democracy and the rule of law if it is to progress. The bombing of the British Consulate and the other terrorist attacks they have experienced recently have opened their eyes to the very real danger of how terrorism can be, close to home.

Turkey is a cornucopia of history, people and riches. It is only 80 some odd years old as a country, but based on centuries of history. It is both Asia and Europe – yet wants to be Europe, you see more of an Asian influence.

Istanbul – looks and acts like Paris. A beautiful, elegant, gracious city, with great food, wonderfully friendly people, yet a growing and serious drug problem. Glue sniffing kids roam the street, begging for their families; beaten if they do not do well. Churches and Mosques (98% Muslim country) sit side by side. And yet the groups work, live and love well together.

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We drove to the church and gardens of Gethsemane, where Jesus spent his last night of freedom; drove to the hill that gives us the best view of the City of David and both the El Agsa Mosque and the Dome of the Rock. As best we could we followed Jesus last steps as he was led from Gethsemane, to where he was judged, and then along the Via Dolorosa. We spent a considerable amount of time at the Church of the Holy Sepulchre where Christ was entombed. Our journey took us below the city to the excavated ruins of what was once a very wealthy home. It was amazing to see that this 2000 year old home boasted two bathrooms, inside the house (they probably had teenagers). We ended our tour of the Old City at the Wailing Wall, fairly empty as Passover is celebrated tonight.

Yossi drove us to the checkpoint at Bethlehem only 15 minutes down the road, but centuries away, as an Israeli he cannot enter the city so we got out of his van, crossed the checkpoint on foot and met up with a Bethlehem guide who showed us the city from King David’s Hill, and then took us to the Church of the Nazareth. In one day we saw where Christ died and was entombed and the manger where he was born.

Once a bustling tourism town, Bethlehem is quiet, no business, many shops and restaurants closed. We ended our time in the shop of our guide’s brother and were served Franciscan wine – which needless to say encouraged our shopping. Our glasses of wine were shrewdly kept refilled. Leaving Bethlehem, we again went through the checkpoint on foot, leaving our Bethlehem driver for an Israeli driver. One of our party engaged one of the Israeli guides in conversation and made the mistake of asking why we were not checked more carefully considering quite a few attacks had started from Bethlehem. The guide then asked to see our cameras and the film we had taken. Quick-witted Phil saved the day and showed several of our stills with sights and pretty girls. (Promise we won’t be “smart mouthed” again.)

Danny Grossman had invited us to Seder-Passover Dinner, but we were exhausted, and instead ended our day with dinner at the American Colony Hotel; the best meal we have had for days (but not an American in sight; there is a German Colony too). A much needed hiatus and a touching day.

Tomorrow more of the Middle East conflict, the “wall”, and interviews with the head guys of the PLO. Picture is you will, and try to imagine our time here in Israel as the Israeli and Palestinians live it. Checkpoints everywhere, armed soldiers, beautiful Jerusalem stone white walled homes (by law) and the people not knowing what’s coming next as they stand in line or wait at a checkpoint (one of the most dangerous) spots, as are crowded restaurants and bars – and busses) yet Christians and Muslims live side by side. Our Israeli guide shook many Arab hands as we walked through the Old City. Our walk took us from the Armenian section through the Jewish section (quarter) to the Muslim Quarter and ended in the Christian Quarter; no problems, no incidents, yet Passover Eve; and heightened security.

We’re thinking the world hears and sees too many “sound bites”.

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Church bells started ringing early on Palm Sunday and awakened us way before our telephone wake up calls. As you can imagine, this is a special week in Jerusalem – Palm Sunday, Passover and Easter. Our hotel (just blocks away from the walled in city of Old Jerusalem) is filled with Jewish people from Canada to France who are here to celebrate Passover with their Israeli families. Today started the beginning of commemorating and festivities of all kinds.

While we longed to join in some of the festivities, Captain Jacob Dallal, Assistant Head of the Israeli Foreign Press Branch, had arranged for us to see portions of the “fence”, so we could see where the fortifications were laid out following the Green Line. We were joined by CBS Correspondent Drew Levinson and his crew. It felt somewhat bizarre to be at Mt. Scopus, Hebrew University behind us, with a military officer carrying a rifle overlooking the “fence”. The row of Israeli homes behind us had bullet and mortar holes in their white stone walls, the valley below us had sheep and goats milling around with their shepherds, and in the distance, across this peaceful looking valley was the bombed out Palestinian section where the shelling had come from.

On the hill across from Mr. Scopus was the electronic tower, loaded with surveillance cameras that would capture photos of anyone attempting to climb the wall from the Palestinian side into the Israeli side. Within minutes, we were told, Israeli troops would be at the site, where “intrusion” took place. The CBS crew took a “sound bite” with Captain Dallal and took off, (and yes, the crew themselves said they only needed a “sound bite”, for that days news report back to the U.S.).

Your diligent crew went on to the tomb of the Prophet Samuel, where Captain Dallal showed us the Israeli settlements where the wall would be and in the distance Ramallah, home of the Palestinian authority. Now noon, we left the Captain and took off for Danny Grossman’s home, about a 45-minute drive on the new toll road. Because we were going to an Israeli neighborhood and then to Israeli Intelligence, we had been asked to use an Israeli rather than our regular Palestinian driver.

Danny Grossman is the Israeli Executive Director of the American Jewish Congress. He wanted us to experience an Israeli home environment and look at the “fence” and “wall” closer to Tel Aviv. We met his family, enjoyed snacks in the back yard of what could be a suburban home in Los Angeles, (palm trees, banana trees and a grill.) Except Danny’s patio has an inlaid stone Star of David, built by two Arab Muslims during the height of the last Intifadah.

We interviewed his son Akiva, on leave from military for a short holiday. Akiva has had friends killed at checkpoints, and he himself was at the checkpoint the 14-year-old boy approached not too long ago who cried, “I don’t want to die.” We walked along the Israeli side of the Green Line while Akiva told us of his going into Palestinian schools to talk about democracy, and how he and his Israeli soldier friends have Arab friends. Here, Arab and Israelis live side by side, mostly at peace.

Our time with Danny concluded high on a hill overlooking Tel Aviv in the distance, and the sea, with a conversation with Major General Uzi Dayan, President of the Zionist Council in Israel. (Yes, he is related to Moishe Dayan) Needless to say, we have more than a “sound bite” on the “fence”. Tomorrow we interview Palestinians on the “wall”. The “fence” deters terrorist attacks. If it does continue to do so it has purpose, but the economic cost and the anger it is causing from Palestinians is mounting. Both sides have points to make.

We finished Palm Sunday in Tel Aviv with Captain Dallal once again and Dr. Reuven Erlich, Director of the Intelligence and Terrorism Information Center of the Center for Special Studies. Their role is to monitor terrorist activities, propaganda and information. We got an earful!

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Today is our third full day in Israel and Palestine. Thanks to the hard work of Danny Grossman with the American Jewish Committee here in Jerusalem, we have done several powerful interviews, beginning with Bob Lang, an American who moved here over 20 years ago. He is a classic political activist who shared his personal experiences in and around the settlements in Jerusalem’s suburbs. We then went to the offices of the American Jewish Congress where we interviewed Rabbi David Rosen and Dr. Eran Lerman where we gained a new perspective on history and religion.

Leaving there we visited Arab East Jerusalem and the Town of Abudis. Abudis’ major street into Jerusalem is now blocked by a 30-foot high wall of concrete. We watched kids climb a short gate nearby but traffic and commerce are stymied, exacerbating the already poor economic conditions in the entire region. We made our way down the wall to a vantagepoint which you’ll see in some of our pictures. “The Wall” cuts off, not Jew from Arab, but rather Arab family from Arab Family. The level of increased anger among the Palestinians is very evident. We interviewed an Arab school teacher who is separated from her school by the wall and whose property she says will be just the latest Israeli confiscation (there is more to this we’ll talk about).

We took lots of pictures in an attempt at accurate portrayal of the “wall’s” effect. The “wall” snakes up and over surrounding hills and allegedly will pave the way for another Jewish settlement in East Jerusalem.

As has been the case on many days we didn’t have time for lunch until 3:00pm, but we had fried chicken and french fries along the road, from a Henny Penny!

Friday we began with Capt. Jacob Dellal, spokesman for the Israeli Defense Forces (IDF). A very articulate young man, he clearly laid out that their goal was to protect Israeli citizens and that Operation Defensive Shield (which began in 2002 as a response to suicide bombing) is working to enhance checkpoint security and build the fence/wall/barrier. Our next interview was Prof. Gerald Steinberg, an expert on unilateral withdrawal who is an advocate of building the wall and leaving it up for perhaps 20 years as a cooling off period. He also supports Israel abandoning significant settlements. Dore Gold, a former UN Representative was next. He is the author of Saudi Hatred, a book that asserts that the Saudis are the source of Islamist hate and funding. The book has copies of original documents proving his claims.

We also spoke with two female students and an American who moved here two years ago and served in the military. We finished by having a drink at the historic Hotel David and then dinner at Cielo, where they had to unlock the door to let us in due to concerns over suicide bombing.

Saturday our driver took us to the West Bank town of Ramallah, where our guide took us through Arafat’s bombed out compound. He was unavailable but we interviewed the Head of Fateh, Sakhr Habash. He and Arafat were together at the founding of Fateh and the PLO in the ’60s. His historical perspective was amazing if not totally credible. A nice guy, he bought Henny Penny Fried Chicken for us after the interview. His office has been blown up more than once by the Israelis.

We spoke with Abdul Rahman Tamimi, Head of the Palestinian Hydrological Group. Water, as we know, is the issue notwithstanding Israeli opinions to the contrary, water in Gaza is not even fit for agricultural use not to mention drinking; hence, Sharon’s unilateral withdrawal is merely leaving an unviable economy with no water.

At noon we interviewed 2003 Sydney Peace Prize awardee, Dr. Hanan Ashrawi. She was very impressive on women’s rights and the need to make the P.A. more accountable. Though no real fan of President Arafat, she also was not interested in hearing any negative information about him.

We finished our day of interviews with Dr. Mustafa Barghouthi, President of the Union of Palestinian Medical Relief Committees and Secretary General of the Palestinian National Initiative. He told of the health problems and pregnant women dying at checkpoints. He is not an Arafat fan and is running a political initiative for free and competitive elections. We wished him luck. And speaking of luck, our checkpoint wait was only 30 minutes. According to Dr. Barghouthi, Israel now runs over 700 checkpoints throughout the occupied territories.

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We arrived in Beirut on Saudi Airlines and were met at our hotel by Tarek Sbaiti who promptly took us on an opening drive by the sea and to dinner in a bustling outdoor cafe that was straight out of Paris, France. The Lebanese food was great as we laid out our goals for the only day we’d be in Beirut.

When Tarek (Ahmad Sbaiti of Dallas’ Cousin) picked us up the next day, we learned that we had a real chance of interviewing one of the most knowledgeable and powerful Shia Clerics in the world, Samahata Sayed Fadlalah, who is referred to as Ayatollah. He was written about in the ’80s and ’90s, as much as Iraq’s Sheikh Al-Sistani is today. As we took pictures of bombed out Beirut next to hundreds of new, gorgeous buildings, the call came in that we were in luck.

Ayatollah Fadlalah did not speak English, but his demeanor was so peaceful even as he discussed the Israel/Palestinian issue and Radical Islam. Niki had to use a female entrance while Dennis and Phil used the main entrance. This is one of our most important interviews, and we went to a TV station to get a dub in case the tape was lost or confiscated. The interview would not have been possible without Tarek and Ahmad’s contacts (Fadlalah married Ahmad and his wife Bonnie).

We shot video of some Beirut landmarks and then headed for the American University (AU) where we visited with students and lucked into a lengthy interview with a Former Alum who we found sitting on a park bench. An Alum of AU who is a businessman, he also was involved in the Oslo Peace Process and is knowledgeable on a wide range of issues.

We spent 2 to 3 hours at a Palestinian Refugee Camp in the heart of Beirut. There was a festival going on which provided an opportunity to see dancing, hear music, interview the organizers, traipse down the narrow passageways of acres of makeshift buildings and get a hands on feel for the anger and frustration of the 400,000 Palestinians still in camps in Beirut. The personal stories were poignant indeed, especially our interview of a young lady who was willing to become a suicide bomber.

We concluded a very busy and productive day with a fish dinner overlooking the Mediterranean, listening to the waves.

We left the hotel on March 31st at 6:00am and it took us 9 hours to get from Beirut to Jerusalem, 12 times we showed passports (5 times at the Beirut Airport alone). The flight took us to Amman and then two taxis to the King Hussein-Allenby Bridge. Lots of customs, delay, etc. culminating on the Israeli side where bureaucracy reached its zenith. Patience becomes essential as all bags were checked thoroughly; still equipment was missing – our only “theft.”

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Our Thursday afternoon arrival at the Marriott found barriers and security checking the hood, trunk and undercarriage for possible bombs. The following day was Friday, the day of worship and holiday here, so we hired a driver to show us the city and its surroundings. Though we never saw sand dunes as such, we did see camels and the old city of Riyadh-Daria. There are two very impressive high rise buildings that house hotels, restaurants etc., and we had dinner 66 stories up and then went to floor 99, a beautiful skybridge with incredible views of the city.

Saturday morning found us in the diplomatic quarter, also behind security checkpoints. New Ambassador James and Mrs. Anita Oberwetter welcomed us to their home here where we interviewed him on his perspective on Saudi Arabia. They send their greetings to their U.S. friends. From there we went to the home of Dr. Hende Kuthlalia whose gracious welcome consisted of tea, dates and sandwiches. Her insights were invaluable, but her writings have caused controversy. As a result of threats she has received, she could only speak on camera with her face in shadow. That night, she was being honored at a dinner hosted by our Ambassador.

Saturday night we interviewed, Dr. Abdulrahman A. Al-Zamil, Chairman of Al Zamil Group. He and his twelve brothers inherited a small real estate company from their father. The company now has 7000 employees and 34 manufacturing facilities in steel, glass, plastic an air conditioning to name a few. A fascinating man, he serves on the 120 man Shuria Council, a sort of parliament to the Royal Family. This is but one reform underway in KSA. He also showed us his family tree (males only) and gave us chocolate covered dates. We finished the interview after 9pm and returned to the hotel for a Mexican buffet. No margaritas (no booze allowed in KSA) but surprisingly decent food.

Sunday morning we toured the King Faisal Medical Center. It employs 7000 including 650 doctors, and believe it or not, there are six Starbucks. The facility was impressive and the next day we interviewed Dr. Salwa Hazaa, the female head of the Ophthalmology Department. Educated in Arizona and at Johns Hopkins, she was a most impressive advocate for today’s Saudi Arabia and the cultural reforms underway.

On Sunday afternoon we interviewed Khalid Gavnany, a former cleric who now teaches in the high school. He writes for local and international publications, and has recently come under attack for his outspoken advocacy of changes in school curriculum. He says that, prior to a couple of years ago, the curriculum included the teaching of hate as part of the religious training. He says that certain verses from the Q’uran that talk about hating infidels and killing them refer only to times of war and hence are taken out of context and taught to young people as if Islam teaches hate of all Muslims.

Finally, at 9pm on Sunday night we interviewed four representatives of the Ministry of Interior. Two were from the Coast Guard, and the other two were Civil Defense, so to speak. They were adamant that the KSA was at risk of terrorists even more than the USA due to the terrorists targeting of the Royal Family and their perceived alliance with “infidels”. We finished after 11pm that night ready for another full morning before going to Beirut.

More to come on Saudi.
Dennis and Niki

After “escaping” Iraq, we have spent four days in Amman. Our focus has been on women’s rights and the Palestinian issue. Amman has been an oasis even though Jordan finds itself literally “between Iraq and a hard place (Israel).”

The Jordanian economy is in trouble due to wars on both sides. This is in spite of liberation of the government by its Hasitemite King Abdullah. Jordan is doing many things right but is still dependent on U.S. aid.

We have been ably assisted here by Leila Deeb, who knows everyone in Jordan, or so it seems. She has arranged interviews, transported us and educated us on Palestinian and women’s rights issues. We hit the ground running on Monday morning, covering two press conferences at the Royal Cultural Center. The biggest issue was the “decapitation” by Israel of Sheikh Yassin, the 67 year old spiritual head of Hamas. That occurred Sunday night, and a press conference was held by a female Jordanian government official. Since it was in Arabic we are unclear as to what was said, but “Israel” and “Mossad” were mentioned regularly.

We actually went to video an event held upstairs. Irene Khan is Secretary General of Amnesty International and they kicked off their “Violence Against Women” initiative. Attended by Queen Rania, it featured speeches by two Arab women who were victims/survivors of violence. The symbol for the initiative is a handprint, and Phil got great video of the Queen placing her handprint on a huge banner. We and others followed suit, and afterwards we interviewed Ms. Khan.

Later we interviewed Amal Sabbagh, Secretary General of the Jordanian National Commission for Women. Her government agency is responsible for recommending legislative and policy initiatives that empower women. Jordan is the leading Arab country, in liberalizing rights for women, and Queen Rania is active not only in Jordan but throughout the region on this issue. The Jordanian National Commission for Women collaborates with a variety of private and public women’s rights groups.

We interviewed Ms. Issam Aboul-Hadi, President of the General Union of Palestinian Women in her home. She told us of the plight of Palestinian women including those still living in camps. We also interviewed Jafar Tukan, an architect from Nablus who told of how Israeli soldiers had decimated his family’s historical residence. While he didn’t agree with suicide bombing by kids, he did help us understand the emotions behind it. He also said that Islamic Sheikhs advocating the same were not in the mainstream.

Two nights ago we attended a service for the late Sheikh Yassin held at a tent set up next to the Palestinian Embassy. You’ll enjoy the video of a quiet gathering of friends and dignitaries.

Yesterday we got a great history lesson on tape from a professor, a negotiator at Madrid and former Jordanian Government Minister. Kemel S. Abu Jaber is a true intellectual who knows his history and can defend his thinking, especially as it relates to the Palestinian issue.

We have had a great and busy time here in Jordan, but yesterday, after 60 days of effort, we received our Saudi Arabia visas, so we fly there today.

We will be back here to interview many Israeli experts next week.

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