Phil Smith, Niki Nicastro McCuistion, and Dennis McCuistion

For all of us, our world changed on 9/11. Even if we were not personally affected, the economy, technology, Homeland Security, getting through an airport with the ease we once had… has had an impact. Little did I know the change it would bring to my life with a phone call from one of the funders of the McCuistion TV program that I have produced for the last 20 years. It was late autumn 2003 and 9/11 was still a raw issue. The funder asked me if I was interested in producing a documentary on terrorism, what led to 9/11 and subsequent events. I hesitated for two seconds — “yes, of course.”

I submitted a grant proposal, it was accepted, and the adventure began. I’d never produced a doc and this work would involve going to the Middle East, interviewing officials, scholars, man/woman on the street, soldiers, and fringe groups. In retrospect my naïveté amazes me. Somehow it all worked, from visas to appointments. Iran declined our visit — took our visa money and said no thank you when I too-truthfully said we wanted to explore democracy and the role of women and terrorism. We were going to Iraq, Jordan, Saudi Arabia, Lebanon and Israel. People responded to my requests, they said yes, interviews were set up and off we went. A budding filmmaker was born. The team:

Phil Smith — videographer; my former husband, Dennis McCuistion — narrator and co-interviewer; and yours truly — producer, director and co-interviewer… all of us eager to show up Michael Moore.

First stop: Jordan for an overnight, then onto Iraq. Our unmarked white plane should have been a clue. Landing in a zig zag pattern surrounded by helicopters was an omen to the suicide bombing we encountered two blocks from our hotel — the first night there. We learned not everyone wanted us. Yet some citizens talked to us and invited us for tea and thanked us. Children would surround us — especially me. We saw the hospitals and schools the US had built. And we encountered hostility as well as acceptance.

In each country we visited, more of the same. The ugly American was hated for his/her politics — not as individuals — and we ran into some touchy incidents. In Jordan, we filmed the funeral of a Hamas leader and an event with Queen Rania protesting violence against women. In a Palestinian camp in Lebanon, with tears running down my face as I interviewed, a woman screamed at me — that she would gladly sacrifice her son as a suicide bomber to help the cause. Yet in his interview with us the spiritual leader of Hezbollah, Ayatollah Fadllalah, lamented the use of violence.

In Israel and Palestine, we interviewed leaders, soldiers, and everyday citizens affected by the ”fence/wall”; one side, intent on keeping suicide bombers out, the other whose whole lives were impacted as villages were cut down the middle by a 15 foot high wall. And on Palm Sunday, as church bells pealed in Jerusalem, we stood on a hill with a CBS crew and IDF (Israeli Defense Forces) and the talent for CBS asked if he could go first since all he needed was a sound bite from IDF regarding the security fence. I thought “a sound bite” on this most divisive issue that is one of the protests bin Laden cites as his reasoning? My life changed once again. I determined these issues would be my life work and it would never be about “sound bites.”

Home again, and months of editing and more interviews and getting b-roll and… Scheduled for airing in January of 2006, we first aired Roots at the Angelika to community leaders. Well-received, it was a shock to get a protest from the Freedom and Justice Foundation saying the work was biased and inaccurate. They were emphatic, and KERA pulled it. And I had to go back to the drawing board, re-vet, and shorten. Our funding was gone, yet terrorism is not static. Phil Smith and I funded the remake out of our own pockets. Needing to keep it up to date, I made numerous trips to interview again here and in the Middle East, and Roots of War finally aired on KERA in June of 2009.

If I knew then what I know now — little would change. Perhaps more preparation, getting experts involved in dialogue before setting out, showing it to key experts as we went along. I have learned painfully about issues such as terrorism and the schism in Middle East politics and jihaddism no-one agrees. There are moderate Muslims who want peace and democracy and are terrorized by their own people so they do not speak up. And I’ve learned I can make a film that counts, that educates and I can hold my ground. Because in the end, as producers it is our work. The Roots of War… the Road to Peace is an ongoing saga. Stay tuned ’cause there is more to come.

The Roots of War…the Road to Peace
airs Wednesday, June 17
on KERA-TV

The Roots of War… the Road to Peace, provides an intriguing look at the complexity of terrorism and the events that led to 9/11. The 90 minute documentary examines Islamist radicals and their brand of terrorism and its impact on the world stage. Through the eyes and voices of key experts, scholars and those most affected, Roots examines history, facts and analysis and gives perspective on the social and political reasons behind most acts of terrorism. It looks at the conflicts in the Middle East that have created a breeding ground for these acts of violence and the role the United States plays.

At a time in history when we are still fighting the “war against terror” the McCuistion team (Niki/ Dennis (producers of the McCuistion Program, now in its 20^th year with KERA, Channel 13), takes an in depth, non-partisan and balanced look at terrorism. “Our purpose was to give historical context and as balanced a perspective as possible on the social, human, geo-political and economic costs of terrorism, whose seeds were sown throughout history in the varied conflicts between the great civilizations and religions of the world.” says Niki McCuistion, executive producer- director of the documentary. “We believe we succeeded in presenting an objective look at a complex issue that continues to dramatically impact our everyday lives.”

Shot on location in Baghdad, Saudi Arabia, Syria, Lebanon, Jordan, Israel, Palestine, and the US, the documentary includes excerpts from over 300 hours of interviews and footage. The documentary presents perspective on many sides of the issue through the opinions and views as expressed by the everyday ‘man” on the street , students, and experts, from Hezbollah, military, spiritual leaders, government officials, academics and scholars and those who set public policy. Among others, the experts include, two former US Ambassadors to Saudi Arabia, The Honorable Robert W. Jordan, on assignment during 9/11, The Honorable James C. Oberwetter, Dr. Dore Gold, former Israeli Ambassador to the United Nations, the Grand Ayatollah Muhammed Hussein Fadlallah, Former Associate Deputy Director of the FBI, Oliver” Buck” Revell, Dr. Eran Lerman, Executive Director of the American Jewish Committee in Jerusalem, and two of the leading Islamic experts in the world, Dr. Akbar Ahmad, and Dr. John Esposito.

The Roots of War… the Road to Peace was initially funded by a grant from the Hatton W. Sumners Foundation Inc. for the Study and Teaching of the Science of Self- Government., and present funders of the McCuistion Program. The team: Niki McCuistion: producer-director and co-interviewer, Dennis McCuistion, narrator and co-interviewer and Phil Smith, lead camera and co-editor, started the Roots of War odyssey in 2004 when they first journeyed to the Middle East. “We wanted to see and explore the ways in which the roots of war were being fertilized with money, power, and ideology throughout the Middle East and examine the geo-political implications of these conflicts,” says Dennis McCuistion. Their first stop- Baghdad. Within hours of their arriving and only 2 blocks from their hotel, they encountered a suicide bombing which took out several city blocks.

Their unexpected immersion in terrorism as well as encounters with everyday citizens, in the various locations they went to quickly showed them that what you see on most news’ programs is not the full story. “We were striving for balance and wanted people to understand there are more than just”two” sides to it all,” said Niki. “Based on what is on our “news” I don’t believe any of the factions are treated “justly” by mainstream media, and consequently we as Americans, “tend to polarize.” We wanted more than just CNN sound bites and to truly get at the roots that have grown this escalating conflict.”

The team spent March of 2004 on location. When the two men returned home Niki stayed on in Israel, going to Turkey for additional interviews before returning home. In September of ’04 Niki returned to Lebanon and Syria, at the time of the Hezbollah pullout from Lebanon, “to capture the feel of the country’ and the true story. The interviewers, Niki and Dennis, continued their interviews in the United States throughout 2004 and 2005, with Niki revisiting Saudi Arabia in ’05.

The documentary was originally scheduled to air on KERA, January 29, 2006, with an initial private screening at the Dallas- Angelika Theatre on January 23. The doc, originally two hours in length, was well received and so it was a shock to get feedback protesting its views a few days after the private screening. The protest, from the Freedom and Justice Organization and several Muslim community leaders claimed a lack of balance, views from only a small number of Muslim scholars as well as some perceived inaccuracies. For several reasons, airing was postponed until the “claims” could be more closely examined.

After several meetings with Channel 13, members of the Muslim community, and the McCuistion crew, the decision was made to shorten the doc from its original two hour length to 90 minutes and revisit several areas. This involved re-editing, revetting the documentary, and continuing to update footage and interviews so it could stay current. Since the original funding had been put to good use in the first documentary- subsequent work was funded by the producer and co- editors; Niki and Phil Smith, and included several visits by Niki to the Middle East to conduct new interviews and continue conversations with key experts and scholars on the topic.

Niki states,” I stand by my original work, much of which is included. As I had clearly said the premise is and was sound. The result is a 90 minute documentary that brings the original premise of the documentary , that of examining the roots of war that were sown in the conflict between and among the great religions of the world and explore the ways in which those roots have been fertilized with money, power , ideology and the geo-political changes throughout the Middle East”.

For more information: contact: Niki NicastroMcCuistionNikin@nikimccuistion.com, 214-750- 5157 and visit, www.therootsofwar.com for more of the story.

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The documentary on terrorism as it relates to 9/11 and bin Laden has a history as long as Gone with the Wind. Scheduled for airing on January 29, 2006 it hit a snag, to say the least. On January 23, playing to a full house, it aired at the Angelika Theatre in Dallas. Most of the comments were very favorable. With the topic what it is and the diversity and conflict between the players we knew we would not, could not, nor did we have the intention of pleasing everyone, that’s not what a documentary is about. Our intent was to have the experts on the doc give their perspectives of what led to 9/11 and where we are as a result.

However the doc was protested by a Muslim activist group- the Freedom and Justice Foundation. . Mohammed Elibiarry, the Executive Director of the foundation, and several Muslim community leaders, objected to what they perceived as the relatively small number of Muslim scholars, and various other perceived inaccuracies. A major concern was that the documentary make clearer that most Muslims are in fact law abiding and abhor terrorism. While we referenced this throughout the video, we agreed to a disclaimer, provided Channel 13 could do so in getting this done in time before its airing that Sunday. Unfortunately, even with the best of intentions, on all sides, it was too late to successfully issue a disclaimer etc. and the program did not in fact air as scheduled January 29 th.

In our desire to get the work aired we agreed to Channel 13’s proposed new vetting, which was done, incorporating the changes suggested, and editing the work from 120 minutes to 90. Now as a novice documentarian, I had no idea that this work would be a full time job- yes, full time…producing the initial documentary work and then redoing the Roots of War has taken me 4 years. If in fact it was a paying with benefits job I’d certainly have job security. In fact my own money funded the changes. Still what an education, so I am grateful. The changes had to be made if we wanted the program to air on Channel 13. Roots became my life’s work. And yes, we can see some light at the end of the tunnel. It’s good work and deserves to be aired. It is balanced, and as fair to all of the issues as can be…

Roots is spawning new projects. It has forced me to look at the world differently. Perhaps there is a world where peace can be attained. Where each of us acknowledges a shared responsibility for the state of our world. And maybe a place where we each, with our own differences are willing to sit down, and break bread and talk about our differences which underline how similar we all are.

The protestors of Roots have become advocates; the differences from each group are forging relationships. Roots in its small way is examining diversity and asking for respect for each others differences. It’s a long journey and it’s not over yet.

So please stay with us. Roots is worth your time.

Niki

George Freidman PhD
Founder and Chairman: Stratfor Think Tank

Nelly Lahoud Ph.D
Professor of Political Theory
Goucher College

Commissionar John F. Lehman
The 9/11 Report

Fawaz A. Gerges PhD
Christian A. Johnson Chairholder
Sarah Lawrence College

Ayatollah Muhammad Hussein Fadlallah
Spiritual Leader of Hezbollah

James C. Oberwetter
Former US Ambassador to Saudi Arabia
2004- 2007

Richard Pearlstein PhD
Assoc. Professor of Political Science
Southeastern Oklahoma State University

Don Beck,PhD
Director:National Values Center

Riad Daudi JD
President:Syrian Virtual University

Fathali M. Moghaddam PhD
Professor: Pyschology Department
Georgetown University

Jafar Tukan
Palestinian Writer

Khalila Sabra
Director:
Muslim-American Society: N. Carolina
Freedom Foundation

Hanan Ashrawi PhD
Secretary General: MIFTA

Oliver “Buck” Revell
Retired, Associate Deputy Director- FBI

Mohammad Raad
Head of the Committee of Support and Resistance:
Deputy: Lebanon Parliament for Hezbollah

John Esposito PhD
Professor: Georgetown University
Prince Alwaleed Bin Talal Center
For Muslim-Christian Study

Akbar Ahmad PhD
Ibn Khaldun Chair of Islamic Studies
American University
Wash. DC

Paul Berman
Author: Terror and Liberalism

Richard B. Parker
Middle East Institute Scholar in Residence
Former Ambassador to: Algeria, Lebanon, Morocco

Thomas W.Lippman
Middle East Institute Adjunct Scholar
Author: Inside The Mirage

Abdul Rahman al Zamil PhD
Chairman of the Board
Al Zamil Group

Mark Palmer
Former Ambassador: Hungary
Author: Breaking the Real Axis of Evil

Isobel Coleman PhD
Senior Fellow Council on Foreign Relations

Nissrin-al Jundi
Alshall Construction- Syria
Office Manager

Kamal Abu Jaber PhD
Jordan Institute for Middle East Sudies

Palestinian Doctor
“Man” on the street
Camp- Lebanon

Danny Grossman
Executive Director
American Jewish Congress- Israel

James Zogby PhD
President: Arab American Institute

Leila Deeb
Editor Encyclopedia Palestina

John Duke Anthony PhD
President:National Council on US Arab Relations

Martin Van Creveld
Hebrew university of Jerusalem
Author: Sword and the Olive

Dore Gold PhD
Author Hatred’s Kingdom
Former Israeli Ambassador to UN

Eran Lehman PhD
Executive Director American Jewish Committee Israel

John D. Negroponte
Former National Director of Intelligence

Mohammed al Imady PhD
Former Minister of Economy Syria

Raphie Etgar
Curator: Israeli Museum

Rabbi David Rosen
Director of Dept. for Interreligious Affairs
American Jewish Committee
Papal Knight: Order of St. Gregory

Jeffrey Nelson MD
Retired- Saudi Aramco

Robert Jordan
Former US Ambassador to Saudi Arabia 2002-0

And that’s the point! We can complain, without looking over our shoulders, or winding up in the town square minus our heads or our hands. We are accused of being arrogant and imposing our views on others (we had that voiced to us often). We can be arrogant and we do impose our views, sometimes wrongly. We’re going to ask you to stay tuned because we will be telling you more about our Middle East journey. Because folks, “at the end of the day,” based on what we heard, saw and experienced, we feel humbled by it all, not the least bit arrogant. And grateful for the country we live in, where we can say what’s on our mind, follow our values, and the dictates of our conscience. You can’t do that in many of the areas we went to.

It’s ironic that with the security checkpoints we went through, we still managed to catch our connections most of the time. Phil had major delays in Tel Aviv, was quizzed by several people, all of his luggage, cameras, papers checked, and during this a bomb scare came in and Ben Gurion Airport in Tel Aviv was evacuated. He did catch his flight to London; caught his London to Chicago flight and would you believe missed his Chicago to Dallas connection because he could not transfer all of his equipment from customs through to Dallas.

Dennis (who left 6 days before me [Niki]) had a walk in the park. Nothing checked, no questions, on you go.

I left from Istanbul (Turkish Airlines was 75 minutes late), arrived at JFK, New York, got through customs, ran for my Dallas connection with little time to spare and smack into a security checkpoint!

Deja vu all over again. New York security checked and rechecked my carry-on, pulled me out of line, asked some questions, patted me down, and you guessed it – I missed my Dallas connection by minutes. American Airlines left the gate early. Turkish Airlines was obligated to put me up at a hotel. They did, a one star, near La Guardia Airport – where I was leaving from the next morning. So, we started the trip at the Hotel Palestine in Baghdad – protected by American forces, in a one star hotel (Phil’s rating) and it ended with one of us in a one star hotel, in a tough, tough neighborhood in Corona Queens, New York, feeling more unsafe than ever, (with no American forces in sight).

Still glad to be back “on the ground”. What we have learned we’re going to share. Our thinking has changed somewhat; and we are all changed more than somewhat by our experiences, the incredible people we met and their stories.

There are many people to thank for making this learning adventure happen.

First and foremost for the funding and the moral support and sense of purpose they gave us: The Hatton W. Sumners Foundation for the Study & Teaching of Self Government, Inc., its trustees and executive director Hugh Akin. Their support will shape this project into the programs and documentaries and stories where you’ll meet who we talked to and who impacted our thinking and challenged us to look below the obvious.

• Phil Smith of Phil Smith Productions, our cameraman, confidante and sidekick.
  Mark Head (F.R.T. Chairman’s Council member) quarterbacked the web site, www.frtv.org.
• Kevin Carr of Internet Strategies (and his able staff) designed the site and put our ramblings from the Middle East on it.
• Mary Handley and Liz Austin for holding down the fort.
• Our F.R.T. board: Cary Clayborn, Ralph Cousins, H. Martin Gibson, William Gordon and
• Lynn Vogt who backed us and the project; and wished us Godspeed.
• F.R.T. Chairman’s Council members who are helping us with continued research and reading: Kathleen Berry, Jim Falk, Paul Pederson, Dr. Rhonda Porterfield and Dick Sartain.
• Brenda Pejovich, who hosted our bon voyage reception.
• Darab Ganji of Petro-Hunt who helped us with Saudi Arabia.
• Congressman Jeb Hensarling and his assistant Barbara Johnson who opened Iraq for us.
• Joel Brooks with the American Jewish Congress in Dallas, who introduced us to his Israeli counterpart, Danny Grossman.
• Danny Grossman for his extraordinary help in Israel and Leila Deeb from Jordan and
• Mohammad Najib – Palestine for opening doors in Palestine.
• Ahmad Sbaiti (F.R.T. Chairman’s Council member) whose nephew, Tarek, helped us in Lebanon. Ahmad has challenged us on these issues for years. He asked us to keep an open mind. We did.
• Jim Falk with the World Affairs Council-Dallas, and Dr. Jerry Leach, World Affairs Council-Washington, DC who gave us contacts and encouragement.
• Leslie Oschmann opened the doors in Turkey.
• Ambassador James Oberwetter (Dallas’ own) U.S. Ambassador to the Kingdom of Saudi Arabia and his capable staff who were invaluable in Saudi.
• Mark Schooler (our Dallas friend and great insurance agent) who put us in touch with Sam Whitfield at CPA in Iraq.
• In Iraq, Don Ritchie of Custer’s Battle Security challenged us with “Maybe we want it more for them than they do (for themselves).” He kept us out of harm’s way during Baghdad’s “fireworks”, the 1st anniversary of the fall of Baghdad.

The list goes on. We’ve missed some. You’ll hear more about those we missed thanking. It’s not intentional, just overload. We’re deeply grateful for everyone who has helped us, supported us and prayed for us – you know who you are.

You’ll hear and see more from us. Thank you for being here …”As always, we’ve been talking about things that matter, with people who care.”

Dennis and Niki

P.S. If you’ve missed any reports and photos you can always go back to The Roots of War website.

Elegant white stone or stucco buildings next to charred, bombed out ruins; driver speeding, narrow streets. Surreal; is the driver playing chicken with pedestrians, and who enjoys it most? Cars drive up a one way street; and the atmosphere is totally chaotic.

First appointment was with Brigadier General Jibdil Rajoub, the National Security Advisor for Chairman Arafat and the Palestinian Authority. General Rajoub is “supposedly” the most powerful man in the Palestinian Authority, he “is” Minister of Foreign Affairs and acts as Arafat’s special envoy to foreign visitors. He’s been commander of the Preventive Security System for the last eight years. General Rajoub addressed Hamas Affairs, and the “fence”. He answered some tough questions:

• Can this regime control violence against Israelis?
• What specifically is being done or not done to correct the situation?
• Your position on suicide attacks, and are they advancing your (the PLO) cause?
• What specifically do you need in order to create the state of Palestine?
• Is it possible to live in peace with the state of Israel?
• It’s been a long time since elections were held – if Chairman Arafat were to run, what would be his chances of re-election?

We joined Mohammed Horani, member of the Palestinian Parliament; one of the growing groups calling for reforms, changing the current Palestinian Authority and PLO leadership and the directives of Chairman Arafat. Mr. Horani addressed his role in the Hamas cease-fire last year.

A surprise interview brought us to Michael Tarazi’s office. Tarazi is a lawyer for the PLO Negotiation Department, active in confiscation issues over settlements and the “fence”. Mr. Tarazi was one of the spokespersons for the PLO at the Hague. A couple of years ago we had the pleasure of interviewing him when he was in the U.S. for the World Affairs Council. A wealth of information, Tarazi is Minister of Negotiation on Sae Berikat, has been head of the Abumazea Plan; and he solidified for us the PLO perspective on the “wall”. (more to come on this)

Interviews ended with the PLO Minister of Information, Navil Amr; a member of the Legislative Council, and a former Minister of Parliamentary Affairs. While serving in this capacity, Mr. Amr repeatedly called for reforms. His life has been threatened by those who do not believe the last Intifadal should have been peaceful. Mr. Amr has been the PLO Ambassador to Moscow and Iraq. His voice has been a strong one shaping the regime yet a dissident one.

If there was a cohesiveness to the day it was that of the settlement issues and the “wall”. On the Palestinian side it is not a security “fence”, but a 30-foot high barrier separating farmers from their fields, people from their businesses, and families from their loved ones. The impression received from Palestinians was that is was a gauntlet; a deliberate slap across the face and some. It is not an issue that will lead to a peaceful coexistence (from the Palestinian perspective) and prevention of terrorist/”suicide” attacks. If anything, one gathered it (the “wall”) may escalate the violence.

We visited with Anne Roberts and her medical staff at Manwra, a health program for women and children, co-sponsored by IBM.

Manwra educates Palestinian women on health issues that affect their families and their own lives. It especially focuses on the health costs associated with Palestine “occupation” issues; that of a woman in labor not being able to get through checkpoints in time for delivery, and literally having to give birth on the ground with armed soldiers nearby; more than a few of these babies do not survive. Manrwa is also dealing with the vitamin deficiencies that result from meat-fish poor diets that lead to malnourished babies and their mothers.

“At the end of the day,” as Captain Jacob Dallal would say, “it remains to be seen what will happen here, but listen up, it is a huge issue.” Our “end of the day” took us shopping in Ramallah where no traffic rules apply, and negotiation is the only way of life. And the Palestinians pride themselves and enjoy the negotiation game. Hmmnn?

Good-bye Israel.

Holy Week, Easter and Passover, streets blocked, barricades and police everywhere. Incidents expected at the Wailing Wall, high tension in the “city”. Time to leave. Yet not an easy task. The time change to daylight savings time lost us an hour so we hustled to Tel Aviv with no time to spare. This is one place where you’d best be there two hours before take off. Stopped at the entrance to the airport, security was tight; long lines of cars waiting to get into Tel Aviv-Ben Gurion Airport. We waited for 35 minutes while our passports were checked and rechecked, and two different people asked the same questions in different ways. Our luggage was looked at, while others, who had been pulled over after our car, were let go.

The same routine took place at the airport – for one solid hour, luggage was checked through security X-ray (2 times); bags were open and all contents examined; questions were asked by three different people in three different ways, and then again: why cameras, were we journalists, why did we go to so many different places, did we go to Palestine, who did we know in Israel and Palestine, did we know them before, why were we doing this job and so on? The questions were asked by young people under 26, coolly, calmly, detached and very professionally. As they said, they were just doing their job.

The economic and human costs of terrorism were clearly felt in Israel and Palestine.

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If It’s Thursday (or is it Friday?) It Must Be Turkey

Istanbul is a gem on the Bosphorous; 16,000,000 people call it home. Beautiful, elusive, Constantinople. The city stays up all night, dinner starts at 9pm. We picked out our own fish, (turbot and white fish straight out of the waters nearby). Dinner was a non-stop political discussion. Try summarizing the Ottoman Empire, Ataturk, the European-Middle East melange Turkey is, with hosts smoking cigars, sipping Raki, and waving their arms. Politics here is a way of life, talked about by everyone from the local cab driver to waiters.

Good fortune led us to Cengiz Andar, a journalist with the Turkish Daily News. Andar brilliantly spoke to the Iraq war, one year after Hussein’s statue at the Ferdows Square was brought down. Said Andar, “the act…symbolized the end of one of the most cruel regimes the history of the Middle East has ever witnessed.” Andar has been a close observer for over 30 years of the Iraq situation, and is an instructor on Iraqi history and politics at an Istanbul University. He has been to Iraq four times since the end of Saddam Hussein’s regime. His comments (not views held by too many people we met) were surprising. Professor Andar disagrees with the “pessimism” prevalent in American politics as it relates to Iraq.

Says Andar, (his comments – we just report what we’re told) “the crackdown on Shiite Cleric Muqtada a Sadr and his ‘Mehdi Army’, and the efforts to pacify the insurgency in the Sunni Triangles most insurgent towns are a recipe for success in the reconstruction if the U.S. is to hand over the sovereignty to Iraq on June 30, the fixed deadline. And no, it is not a Vietnam, because Iraq is not Vietnam. Iraq is Iraq . . . the historical circumstances have no resemblance at all.”

Professor Andar stated, that we (Americans) have committed mistakes, one being not stopping al-Sadr when we could have and letting him organize the “Mehdi Army”. He believes al-Sadr is “enough of a trouble maker to threaten many Iraqis.” He commented favorably on Paul Bremer’s declaring al-Sadr an “outlaw” and Bremer’s shaping the situation “on the ground” rather than just reacting…you’ll see more of Andar later.

In case you’re wondering, this view was not one we heard often. The afternoon gave us just the opposite from at least a bakers dozen other Turks. As you know American’s position on Iraq and in other areas is not regarded well. Our notes and tapes reflect this over and over.

Yet at the same time our politics and positions may not be liked or respected, we as a people are. Over and over we heard about our friendliness and willingness to help people in need. What was also remarkable was how well informed Middle Easterners are on the issues of the day, and how too often we as a people were criticized for spouting “sound bites”. Well, guess thatÕs why we came isn’t it?,Éto bring you more than “sound bites”.

Michael Kirser, (editor of Turkish Business World) then joined us. He and his wife Sra have published the magazine through good times and bad. While he says the economy was picking up he also said ads are down, the magazine is thinner. And we know ads are the first to go. Michael addressed Turkish-European relations and the challenges Turkey has because it straddles both Asia and Europe. Turkey is striving mightily to bring itself into this century. It has its challenges, Cypress, and how its citizens view U.S.-Turkey-Iraqi relations, among others. Economist World Outlook 2004 classified Turkey with Zimbabwe as a financial trouble spot. 75¢ USA is equivalent to 1,000,000 Lira. Kirser believes it impossible for the lira to sustain its value and hopes for a soft descent.

Other challenges include, the highest cost of energy and telecommunication rates in Europe, inadequate rail and ports and roads. Michael said Turkey has to work even more diligently toward democracy and the rule of law if it is to progress. The bombing of the British Consulate and the other terrorist attacks they have experienced recently have opened their eyes to the very real danger of how terrorism can be, close to home.

Turkey is a cornucopia of history, people and riches. It is only 80 some odd years old as a country, but based on centuries of history. It is both Asia and Europe – yet wants to be Europe, you see more of an Asian influence.

Istanbul – looks and acts like Paris. A beautiful, elegant, gracious city, with great food, wonderfully friendly people, yet a growing and serious drug problem. Glue sniffing kids roam the street, begging for their families; beaten if they do not do well. Churches and Mosques (98% Muslim country) sit side by side. And yet the groups work, live and love well together.

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We drove to the church and gardens of Gethsemane, where Jesus spent his last night of freedom; drove to the hill that gives us the best view of the City of David and both the El Agsa Mosque and the Dome of the Rock. As best we could we followed Jesus last steps as he was led from Gethsemane, to where he was judged, and then along the Via Dolorosa. We spent a considerable amount of time at the Church of the Holy Sepulchre where Christ was entombed. Our journey took us below the city to the excavated ruins of what was once a very wealthy home. It was amazing to see that this 2000 year old home boasted two bathrooms, inside the house (they probably had teenagers). We ended our tour of the Old City at the Wailing Wall, fairly empty as Passover is celebrated tonight.

Yossi drove us to the checkpoint at Bethlehem only 15 minutes down the road, but centuries away, as an Israeli he cannot enter the city so we got out of his van, crossed the checkpoint on foot and met up with a Bethlehem guide who showed us the city from King David’s Hill, and then took us to the Church of the Nazareth. In one day we saw where Christ died and was entombed and the manger where he was born.

Once a bustling tourism town, Bethlehem is quiet, no business, many shops and restaurants closed. We ended our time in the shop of our guide’s brother and were served Franciscan wine – which needless to say encouraged our shopping. Our glasses of wine were shrewdly kept refilled. Leaving Bethlehem, we again went through the checkpoint on foot, leaving our Bethlehem driver for an Israeli driver. One of our party engaged one of the Israeli guides in conversation and made the mistake of asking why we were not checked more carefully considering quite a few attacks had started from Bethlehem. The guide then asked to see our cameras and the film we had taken. Quick-witted Phil saved the day and showed several of our stills with sights and pretty girls. (Promise we won’t be “smart mouthed” again.)

Danny Grossman had invited us to Seder-Passover Dinner, but we were exhausted, and instead ended our day with dinner at the American Colony Hotel; the best meal we have had for days (but not an American in sight; there is a German Colony too). A much needed hiatus and a touching day.

Tomorrow more of the Middle East conflict, the “wall”, and interviews with the head guys of the PLO. Picture is you will, and try to imagine our time here in Israel as the Israeli and Palestinians live it. Checkpoints everywhere, armed soldiers, beautiful Jerusalem stone white walled homes (by law) and the people not knowing what’s coming next as they stand in line or wait at a checkpoint (one of the most dangerous) spots, as are crowded restaurants and bars – and busses) yet Christians and Muslims live side by side. Our Israeli guide shook many Arab hands as we walked through the Old City. Our walk took us from the Armenian section through the Jewish section (quarter) to the Muslim Quarter and ended in the Christian Quarter; no problems, no incidents, yet Passover Eve; and heightened security.

We’re thinking the world hears and sees too many “sound bites”.

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Church bells started ringing early on Palm Sunday and awakened us way before our telephone wake up calls. As you can imagine, this is a special week in Jerusalem – Palm Sunday, Passover and Easter. Our hotel (just blocks away from the walled in city of Old Jerusalem) is filled with Jewish people from Canada to France who are here to celebrate Passover with their Israeli families. Today started the beginning of commemorating and festivities of all kinds.

While we longed to join in some of the festivities, Captain Jacob Dallal, Assistant Head of the Israeli Foreign Press Branch, had arranged for us to see portions of the “fence”, so we could see where the fortifications were laid out following the Green Line. We were joined by CBS Correspondent Drew Levinson and his crew. It felt somewhat bizarre to be at Mt. Scopus, Hebrew University behind us, with a military officer carrying a rifle overlooking the “fence”. The row of Israeli homes behind us had bullet and mortar holes in their white stone walls, the valley below us had sheep and goats milling around with their shepherds, and in the distance, across this peaceful looking valley was the bombed out Palestinian section where the shelling had come from.

On the hill across from Mr. Scopus was the electronic tower, loaded with surveillance cameras that would capture photos of anyone attempting to climb the wall from the Palestinian side into the Israeli side. Within minutes, we were told, Israeli troops would be at the site, where “intrusion” took place. The CBS crew took a “sound bite” with Captain Dallal and took off, (and yes, the crew themselves said they only needed a “sound bite”, for that days news report back to the U.S.).

Your diligent crew went on to the tomb of the Prophet Samuel, where Captain Dallal showed us the Israeli settlements where the wall would be and in the distance Ramallah, home of the Palestinian authority. Now noon, we left the Captain and took off for Danny Grossman’s home, about a 45-minute drive on the new toll road. Because we were going to an Israeli neighborhood and then to Israeli Intelligence, we had been asked to use an Israeli rather than our regular Palestinian driver.

Danny Grossman is the Israeli Executive Director of the American Jewish Congress. He wanted us to experience an Israeli home environment and look at the “fence” and “wall” closer to Tel Aviv. We met his family, enjoyed snacks in the back yard of what could be a suburban home in Los Angeles, (palm trees, banana trees and a grill.) Except Danny’s patio has an inlaid stone Star of David, built by two Arab Muslims during the height of the last Intifadah.

We interviewed his son Akiva, on leave from military for a short holiday. Akiva has had friends killed at checkpoints, and he himself was at the checkpoint the 14-year-old boy approached not too long ago who cried, “I don’t want to die.” We walked along the Israeli side of the Green Line while Akiva told us of his going into Palestinian schools to talk about democracy, and how he and his Israeli soldier friends have Arab friends. Here, Arab and Israelis live side by side, mostly at peace.

Our time with Danny concluded high on a hill overlooking Tel Aviv in the distance, and the sea, with a conversation with Major General Uzi Dayan, President of the Zionist Council in Israel. (Yes, he is related to Moishe Dayan) Needless to say, we have more than a “sound bite” on the “fence”. Tomorrow we interview Palestinians on the “wall”. The “fence” deters terrorist attacks. If it does continue to do so it has purpose, but the economic cost and the anger it is causing from Palestinians is mounting. Both sides have points to make.

We finished Palm Sunday in Tel Aviv with Captain Dallal once again and Dr. Reuven Erlich, Director of the Intelligence and Terrorism Information Center of the Center for Special Studies. Their role is to monitor terrorist activities, propaganda and information. We got an earful!

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