Passover Eve – A Day of Rest and Ritual
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We drove to the church and gardens of Gethsemane, where Jesus spent his last night of freedom; drove to the hill that gives us the best view of the City of David and both the El Agsa Mosque and the Dome of the Rock. As best we could we followed Jesus last steps as he was led from Gethsemane, to where he was judged, and then along the Via Dolorosa. We spent a considerable amount of time at the Church of the Holy Sepulchre where Christ was entombed. Our journey took us below the city to the excavated ruins of what was once a very wealthy home. It was amazing to see that this 2000 year old home boasted two bathrooms, inside the house (they probably had teenagers). We ended our tour of the Old City at the Wailing Wall, fairly empty as Passover is celebrated tonight.
Yossi drove us to the checkpoint at Bethlehem only 15 minutes down the road, but centuries away, as an Israeli he cannot enter the city so we got out of his van, crossed the checkpoint on foot and met up with a Bethlehem guide who showed us the city from King David’s Hill, and then took us to the Church of the Nazareth. In one day we saw where Christ died and was entombed and the manger where he was born.
Once a bustling tourism town, Bethlehem is quiet, no business, many shops and restaurants closed. We ended our time in the shop of our guide’s brother and were served Franciscan wine – which needless to say encouraged our shopping. Our glasses of wine were shrewdly kept refilled. Leaving Bethlehem, we again went through the checkpoint on foot, leaving our Bethlehem driver for an Israeli driver. One of our party engaged one of the Israeli guides in conversation and made the mistake of asking why we were not checked more carefully considering quite a few attacks had started from Bethlehem. The guide then asked to see our cameras and the film we had taken. Quick-witted Phil saved the day and showed several of our stills with sights and pretty girls. (Promise we won’t be “smart mouthed” again.)
Danny Grossman had invited us to Seder-Passover Dinner, but we were exhausted, and instead ended our day with dinner at the American Colony Hotel; the best meal we have had for days (but not an American in sight; there is a German Colony too). A much needed hiatus and a touching day.
Tomorrow more of the Middle East conflict, the “wall”, and interviews with the head guys of the PLO. Picture is you will, and try to imagine our time here in Israel as the Israeli and Palestinians live it. Checkpoints everywhere, armed soldiers, beautiful Jerusalem stone white walled homes (by law) and the people not knowing what’s coming next as they stand in line or wait at a checkpoint (one of the most dangerous) spots, as are crowded restaurants and bars – and busses) yet Christians and Muslims live side by side. Our Israeli guide shook many Arab hands as we walked through the Old City. Our walk took us from the Armenian section through the Jewish section (quarter) to the Muslim Quarter and ended in the Christian Quarter; no problems, no incidents, yet Passover Eve; and heightened security.
We’re thinking the world hears and sees too many “sound bites”.
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