Saudi Arabia: Four Arabian Nights
In some ways it seemed like 1000 nights; in others, we find ourselves hating to leave the Kingdom of Saudi Arabia (KSA). There were others we wanted to interview, but overall we saw an interesting group of people, thanks to our hosts, the Ministry of Information. We were met at the airport by Mohammad (No, not the Mohammad). The airport is beautiful and very modern, and the capital city of Riyadh is clean and new and could be Phoenix without the mountains.
Our Thursday afternoon arrival at the Marriott found barriers and security checking the hood, trunk and undercarriage for possible bombs. The following day was Friday, the day of worship and holiday here, so we hired a driver to show us the city and its surroundings. Though we never saw sand dunes as such, we did see camels and the old city of Riyadh-Daria. There are two very impressive high rise buildings that house hotels, restaurants etc., and we had dinner 66 stories up and then went to floor 99, a beautiful skybridge with incredible views of the city.
Saturday morning found us in the diplomatic quarter, also behind security checkpoints. New Ambassador James and Mrs. Anita Oberwetter welcomed us to their home here where we interviewed him on his perspective on Saudi Arabia. They send their greetings to their U.S. friends. From there we went to the home of Dr. Hende Kuthlalia whose gracious welcome consisted of tea, dates and sandwiches. Her insights were invaluable, but her writings have caused controversy. As a result of threats she has received, she could only speak on camera with her face in shadow. That night, she was being honored at a dinner hosted by our Ambassador.
Saturday night we interviewed, Dr. Abdulrahman A. Al-Zamil, Chairman of Al Zamil Group. He and his twelve brothers inherited a small real estate company from their father. The company now has 7000 employees and 34 manufacturing facilities in steel, glass, plastic an air conditioning to name a few. A fascinating man, he serves on the 120 man Shuria Council, a sort of parliament to the Royal Family. This is but one reform underway in KSA. He also showed us his family tree (males only) and gave us chocolate covered dates. We finished the interview after 9pm and returned to the hotel for a Mexican buffet. No margaritas (no booze allowed in KSA) but surprisingly decent food.
Sunday morning we toured the King Faisal Medical Center. It employs 7000 including 650 doctors, and believe it or not, there are six Starbucks. The facility was impressive and the next day we interviewed Dr. Salwa Hazaa, the female head of the Ophthalmology Department. Educated in Arizona and at Johns Hopkins, she was a most impressive advocate for today’s Saudi Arabia and the cultural reforms underway.
On Sunday afternoon we interviewed Khalid Gavnany, a former cleric who now teaches in the high school. He writes for local and international publications, and has recently come under attack for his outspoken advocacy of changes in school curriculum. He says that, prior to a couple of years ago, the curriculum included the teaching of hate as part of the religious training. He says that certain verses from the Q’uran that talk about hating infidels and killing them refer only to times of war and hence are taken out of context and taught to young people as if Islam teaches hate of all Muslims.
Finally, at 9pm on Sunday night we interviewed four representatives of the Ministry of Interior. Two were from the Coast Guard, and the other two were Civil Defense, so to speak. They were adamant that the KSA was at risk of terrorists even more than the USA due to the terrorists targeting of the Royal Family and their perceived alliance with “infidels”. We finished after 11pm that night ready for another full morning before going to Beirut.
More to come on Saudi.
Dennis and Niki
