We drove to the church and gardens of Gethsemane, where Jesus spent his last night of freedom; drove to the hill that gives us the best view of the City of David and both the El Agsa Mosque and the Dome of the Rock. As best we could we followed Jesus last steps as he was led from Gethsemane, to where he was judged, and then along the Via Dolorosa. We spent a considerable amount of time at the Church of the Holy Sepulchre where Christ was entombed. Our journey took us below the city to the excavated ruins of what was once a very wealthy home. It was amazing to see that this 2000 year old home boasted two bathrooms, inside the house (they probably had teenagers). We ended our tour of the Old City at the Wailing Wall, fairly empty as Passover is celebrated tonight.

Yossi drove us to the checkpoint at Bethlehem only 15 minutes down the road, but centuries away, as an Israeli he cannot enter the city so we got out of his van, crossed the checkpoint on foot and met up with a Bethlehem guide who showed us the city from King David’s Hill, and then took us to the Church of the Nazareth. In one day we saw where Christ died and was entombed and the manger where he was born.

Once a bustling tourism town, Bethlehem is quiet, no business, many shops and restaurants closed. We ended our time in the shop of our guide’s brother and were served Franciscan wine – which needless to say encouraged our shopping. Our glasses of wine were shrewdly kept refilled. Leaving Bethlehem, we again went through the checkpoint on foot, leaving our Bethlehem driver for an Israeli driver. One of our party engaged one of the Israeli guides in conversation and made the mistake of asking why we were not checked more carefully considering quite a few attacks had started from Bethlehem. The guide then asked to see our cameras and the film we had taken. Quick-witted Phil saved the day and showed several of our stills with sights and pretty girls. (Promise we won’t be “smart mouthed” again.)

Danny Grossman had invited us to Seder-Passover Dinner, but we were exhausted, and instead ended our day with dinner at the American Colony Hotel; the best meal we have had for days (but not an American in sight; there is a German Colony too). A much needed hiatus and a touching day.

Tomorrow more of the Middle East conflict, the “wall”, and interviews with the head guys of the PLO. Picture is you will, and try to imagine our time here in Israel as the Israeli and Palestinians live it. Checkpoints everywhere, armed soldiers, beautiful Jerusalem stone white walled homes (by law) and the people not knowing what’s coming next as they stand in line or wait at a checkpoint (one of the most dangerous) spots, as are crowded restaurants and bars – and busses) yet Christians and Muslims live side by side. Our Israeli guide shook many Arab hands as we walked through the Old City. Our walk took us from the Armenian section through the Jewish section (quarter) to the Muslim Quarter and ended in the Christian Quarter; no problems, no incidents, yet Passover Eve; and heightened security.

We’re thinking the world hears and sees too many “sound bites”.

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Church bells started ringing early on Palm Sunday and awakened us way before our telephone wake up calls. As you can imagine, this is a special week in Jerusalem – Palm Sunday, Passover and Easter. Our hotel (just blocks away from the walled in city of Old Jerusalem) is filled with Jewish people from Canada to France who are here to celebrate Passover with their Israeli families. Today started the beginning of commemorating and festivities of all kinds.

While we longed to join in some of the festivities, Captain Jacob Dallal, Assistant Head of the Israeli Foreign Press Branch, had arranged for us to see portions of the “fence”, so we could see where the fortifications were laid out following the Green Line. We were joined by CBS Correspondent Drew Levinson and his crew. It felt somewhat bizarre to be at Mt. Scopus, Hebrew University behind us, with a military officer carrying a rifle overlooking the “fence”. The row of Israeli homes behind us had bullet and mortar holes in their white stone walls, the valley below us had sheep and goats milling around with their shepherds, and in the distance, across this peaceful looking valley was the bombed out Palestinian section where the shelling had come from.

On the hill across from Mr. Scopus was the electronic tower, loaded with surveillance cameras that would capture photos of anyone attempting to climb the wall from the Palestinian side into the Israeli side. Within minutes, we were told, Israeli troops would be at the site, where “intrusion” took place. The CBS crew took a “sound bite” with Captain Dallal and took off, (and yes, the crew themselves said they only needed a “sound bite”, for that days news report back to the U.S.).

Your diligent crew went on to the tomb of the Prophet Samuel, where Captain Dallal showed us the Israeli settlements where the wall would be and in the distance Ramallah, home of the Palestinian authority. Now noon, we left the Captain and took off for Danny Grossman’s home, about a 45-minute drive on the new toll road. Because we were going to an Israeli neighborhood and then to Israeli Intelligence, we had been asked to use an Israeli rather than our regular Palestinian driver.

Danny Grossman is the Israeli Executive Director of the American Jewish Congress. He wanted us to experience an Israeli home environment and look at the “fence” and “wall” closer to Tel Aviv. We met his family, enjoyed snacks in the back yard of what could be a suburban home in Los Angeles, (palm trees, banana trees and a grill.) Except Danny’s patio has an inlaid stone Star of David, built by two Arab Muslims during the height of the last Intifadah.

We interviewed his son Akiva, on leave from military for a short holiday. Akiva has had friends killed at checkpoints, and he himself was at the checkpoint the 14-year-old boy approached not too long ago who cried, “I don’t want to die.” We walked along the Israeli side of the Green Line while Akiva told us of his going into Palestinian schools to talk about democracy, and how he and his Israeli soldier friends have Arab friends. Here, Arab and Israelis live side by side, mostly at peace.

Our time with Danny concluded high on a hill overlooking Tel Aviv in the distance, and the sea, with a conversation with Major General Uzi Dayan, President of the Zionist Council in Israel. (Yes, he is related to Moishe Dayan) Needless to say, we have more than a “sound bite” on the “fence”. Tomorrow we interview Palestinians on the “wall”. The “fence” deters terrorist attacks. If it does continue to do so it has purpose, but the economic cost and the anger it is causing from Palestinians is mounting. Both sides have points to make.

We finished Palm Sunday in Tel Aviv with Captain Dallal once again and Dr. Reuven Erlich, Director of the Intelligence and Terrorism Information Center of the Center for Special Studies. Their role is to monitor terrorist activities, propaganda and information. We got an earful!

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